This is a long page but you should be able to find the information you need by scrolling through
What gear do I need?
If you’re just starting out with indoor climbing, you can hire a rock climbing harness, shoes, screwgate carabiner and belay device from the climbing centre. If you go often, it will quickly become cheaper to purchase your own.
For outdoor trips, it is expected that Novice climbers will have their own rock climbing harness, screwgate carabiner, belay device and shoes - climbs led by a club leader can utillise the club beginners climbing kit. Rock climbing helmets must be worn on all AOAC outdoor trips – a limited number are available for hire from the Club.
Intermediate climbers are expected to have their own helmet, harness, screwgate carabiners, belay device, sling, shoes, 60m (or longer) dynamic rope and quick draws (or be able to share the last two items with someone).
Advanced climbers are expected to have all of the above, and their own trad rack (or be able to share with someone who does).
NB Climbing Equipment Maximum Life Information
What Experience Level am I?
You should use these as a guide and err on the side of caution if unsure (or out of practice).
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Experience level |
Skills Required |
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CLIMBING |
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Beginner |
* None required. |
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Refresher |
* Has previously been at least ITRC, but hasn't climbed in a while and needs a refreshing of skills |
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ITRC (Indoor Top Rope Competent) |
* Has attended at least 3 AOAC beginner climbing sessions or equivalent * Can tie in with a figure eight knot. * Can confidently and safely belay from below on top rope. * Communicates using standard climbing calls. * Understands basic climbing wall etiquette. * Can safely catch a fall as belayer * Can safely take a fall as climber |
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ILC (Indoor Lead Competent) |
* Competent at all ITRC skills. * Has done at least 10 AOAC sessions or equivalent |
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OTRC (Outdoor top rope competent) |
* Has attended at least 3 AOAC sessions or equivalent of which minimum 1 was outdoors * Can tie a figure eight knot. * Can confidently and safely belay from below on outdoor top rope. * Communicates using standard climbing calls. * Understands basic climbing venue etiquette, the impact of climbers at the crag, ethics, access and environmental considerations for climbers. * Understands the reasons for, and complies with the Club requirement for outdoor climbers to wear helmets during the activity. * Can abseil on anchor set up by competent leader * Knows fundamental climbing movement skills and climbing styles * Can identify hazards, manage risk, understand common injuries, knows how to get help and the role of Mountain Rescue and associated emergency services. * Can safely second a route * Can safely belay from below on top rope and catch a fall * Can safely take a fall as climber |
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SLC - SP (Sport Lead Competent - Single Pitch) |
* Very competent at all OTRC skills and has done at least 10 indoor or outdoor climbs and belays * Has attended the AOAC Learn to Lead training course or equivalent * Can assess the serviceability of all equipment to be used before climbing with it. * Can use a guide book to correctly identify routes. * Can confidently and safely belay a lead climber from below. * Can climb on lead and safely clip in to fixed gear (bolts). * Can safely assess rock and bolt quality, and other hazards during climbing and take appropriate measures to prevent injury to themselves and their belayer. * Can confidently and competently thread the anchors using at least 2 points of safety attachment. * Can strip a route of all placed gear whilst being lowered to the ground. * Can safely catch a fall from above the clip as belayer * Can safely take a fall from above a clip as climber |
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SLC - MP (Sport Lead Competent - Multi Pitch) |
* Extremely competent at all SLC-SP skills. * Can competently build a safe belay using fixed gear (bolts) on a sport multi-pitch stance. * Can safely abseil/rappel using an appropriate device and back-up/autoblock. * Can competently belay a second from above. * Can safely supervise a second and ensure they make themselves safe at the stance. * Understands the consequences of and takes steps to avoid a factor 2 fall. |
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TSC - SP (Trad Second Competent - Single Pitch) |
* Competent at all SPL-SP skills * Has participated in an AOAC Trad skill share session or appropriate Trad training session * Can competently remove gear * Can safely abseil/rappel using an appropriate device and back-up/autoblock. * Can competently and safely belay a lead climber on a trad route from the ground. * Can safely and effectively remove leader placed protection from the rock and stow it on their harness. |
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TSC - MP (Trad Second Competent - Multi Pitch) |
* Competent at all TSC-SP skills * Has done a minimum 10 single pitch trad climbs as a second * Can safely attach to an anchor * Can safely belay from below standing on a stance or a ledge |
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TLC - SP (Trad Lead Competent - Single Pitch) |
* Very competent at all TSC-SP skills * Can assess the serviceability of all equipment to be used before climbing with it. * Can use a guide book to correctly identify routes. * Can confidently and safely belay a lead climber on a trad route with single and/or half ropes. * Can climb on lead and safely place a variety of leader placed protection e.g. nuts/wires/rocks, cams, threads and spikes. * Can safely assess rock and placement quality, and other hazards during climbing and take appropriate measures to prevent injury to themselves and their belayer. * Can confidently and competently build a belay anchor using at least 2 anchor points ensuring that each anchor is: secure, redundant, equalized and suitably angled, has no extension and points naturally down the climb. * Can competently belay a second from above, both left and right-handed. * Can competently identify a suitable abseil/rappel anchor and set up an abseil rope. * Can safely supervise a second |
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TLC - MP (Trad Lead Competent - Multi Pitch) |
* Extremely competent at all TLC-SP skills. * Can safely supervise a second and ensure they make themselves safe at the stance. * Understands the consequences of and takes steps to avoid a factor 2 fall. * Can prusik up a rope. |
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Bouldering |
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IBC (Indoor Bouldering Competent) |
* Can safely ‘spot’ a fellow indoor boulder climber. * Understands the risk of injury by dropping from the top hold. * Understands the risks of climbing above/below/adjacent to another boulder climber and takes appropriate steps to mitigate those risks. |
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OBC (Outdoor Bouldering Competent) |
* Can use a guide book to correctly identify boulder ‘problems. * Can effectively place protective matting at the base of a problem. * Can safely ‘spot’ a fellow boulder climber. |
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Via Ferrata |
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VFB (Via Ferrata Beginner) |
* No skills required but a reasonable level of fitness in line with the proposed activity (including walkout) and a suitable “head for heights” is required. * Initial instruction must be provided by a qualified VF Instructor |
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VFN (Via Ferrata Novice) |
* Has received formal instruction on the basic techniques * Has completed at least 2 VF routes at F level of difficulty (or greater) * Can securely fit a climbing harness. * Can safely attach a VF lanyard and understand the principles of using dual leashes. * Can tie a figure eight knot (for use when being belayed up a section of the VF route). * Can communicate using standard climbing calls. * Understands basic VF etiquette. * Understands the reasons for, and complies with the Club requirement for VF participants to wear helmets, gloves and appropriate footwear during the activity. |
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VFC (Via Ferrata Competent) |
* Very competent at all Novice level skills. * Has completed at least 2 VF routes at PD level of difficulty (or greater) and have learnt to belay a lead climber. * Can assess the serviceability of all equipment before use. * Can use a guide book to correctly identify routes. * Can confidently and safely belay a leader on an exposed pitch of a VF route. * Can safely assess rock and fixed equipment quality, and other hazards and take appropriate measures to prevent injury to themselves and other participants. * Can confidently remove leader placed equipment and stow it safely on their harness whilst climbing a route. |
| AOAC Climbing Instructor and Leader Categories | |||
| Title | Awarding Body | Extension Requirements | Caveats/Limitations |
| Rock Climbing Development Instructor (RCDI) | MLT UK | N/A | As per NGB and Experience Level |
| RCDI (Full Extension) | AOAC | Very experienced RCI who has also completed RCDI training and has been peer assessed to hold an extended remit which allows them to act as an RCDI on behalf of the club | As per NGB and Experience Level |
| RCDI (Limited Extension) | AOAC | Very experienced RCI who has been peer assessed to hold an extended remit which allows them to also teach lead climbing on behalf of the club | Only permitted to teach lead climbing at venues they have good experience of. Group size is limited to 6 people on adjacent (within sight) routes e.g. 2 groups of 3. |
| Rock Climbing Instructor (RCI) | MLT UK | N/A | As per NGB and Experience Level |
| RCI (Full Extension) | AOAC | Very experienced climber who has also completed RCI training and has been peer assessed to hold an extended remit which allows them to operate as an RCI on behalf of the club | As per NGB and Experience Level |
| RCI (Limited Extension) | AOAC | Very experienced climber who has been peer assessed to hold an extended remit which allows them to operate as an RCI on behalf of the club | Group size is limited to 6 people on adjacent (within sight) routes e.g. 2 groups of 3. |
| Climbing Wall Development Instructor (CWDI) | MLT UK | N/A | As per NGB and Experience Level |
| CWDI (Full Extension) | AOAC | Very experienced CWI who has also completed CWDI (or RCDI) training and has been peer assessed to act as a CWDI on behalf of the club | As per NGB and Experience Level |
| CWDI (Limited Extension) | AOAC | Very experienced CWI (or RCI) who has been peer assessed to hold an extended remit which allows them to also teach lead climbing on behalf of the club | Only permitted to teach lead climbing at venues they have good experience of. Group size is limited to 6 people on adjacent (within sight) routes e.g. 2 groups of 3. |
| Climbing Wall Instructor (CWI) | MLT UK | N/A | As per NGB and Experience Level |
| CWI (Full Extension - Minimum Level for teaching Beginners) | AOAC | Very experienced indoor climber who has also completed CWI (or RCI) training and has been peer assessed to hold an extended remit which allows them to operate as a CWI on behalf of the club | Group size is limited to 6 people on adjacent (within sight) routes e.g. 2 groups of 3. NB Indoor Centres may have their own maximum group size) |
| Indoor Activity Leader | AOAC | N/A | As per SOP and Experience Level |
| Outdoor Activity Leader | AOAC | N/A | As per SOP and Experience Level |
| Lead Climber | AOAC | A person nominated during an outdoor event to act as the lead climber within a self contained group of climbers on a route. | Minimum Experience Level of Competent. Will operate under the general supervision of the Outdoor Activity Leader for the event. |
| Notes: | |||
| Instructors/leaders are to be listed alongside their Experience Level from the SOPs. | |||
| Lead climbers have no supervisory responsibility other than that which one would expect climbing partners to have to one another. | |||
| Pre-requisite qualifications towards an extended remit should have a 'shelf life' of 5 years unless the candidate can show that they have used the skills regularly in that intervening period. | |||
What else do I need to know?
Please read the Rockclimbing Standard Operating Procedures for information on how rock climbing trips are organised, and your personal responsibilities as a trip participant or leader.
Standards for reviewing a member for leading an indoor climbing session
Question not answered?
Email [email protected] for more info.
